I just read an article in the Economist that was devoted to a new discussion in the wine industry centered on “Blouge” wine, which I had never heard of. The title of the article was, amusingly, “Singing the Blouge”. I should quickly add that I am no wine connoisseur, nor do I claim to be anything other than an enthusiastic consumer. If I have any guide to my choice of wines, it is a commentary in John Cleese’s documentary “Wine for the Confused” where he suggested that you try and find a wine you like, try to describe it (very difficult and requiring many, many sessions) and then find a purveyor of wines who understands what you are talking about. I am still trying to describe my taste after many moons of trying!! Hence there is no real reason why I would think I should have heard of “Blouge”.
The description of “Blouge” wine in the Economist article also reminded me of one particular test that Jon Cleese gave his invited guests at a wine tasting at his house in California. He started with the usual tests of very expensive wines versus selected very cheap ones and, of course the majority of his friends couldn’t tell the difference – normal, even amongst people who claim they “know” wines. He then gave each guest a glass which was covered in a way that they couldn’t see what was inside. He asked if the wine was red or white …… and well over 50% of them got it wrong! Back to ”Blouge”, which is neither red nor white, it’s both.
Christian Binner, a wine-maker from the Alsace region of France, has produced “Cotes d’Amourschwihr Pinots”, which is a blend of two grapes: pinot gris, a white grape, and pinot noir, a red grape. Served slightly chilled, the resulting wine is light and refreshing, like a white, but with the structure and depth of a red. He has called it “Blouge”, which is a combination of the words Blanc and rouge. The idea has since spread to other areas of France, Sonoma, California, Adelaide Hills in Australia and even, quite recently, the venerated region of Bordeaux.
“Blouge” is different from rosé which, despite its color, is almost always made using only red grapes. Even wines and champagnes that have color, tend to only use the skins of red grapes, not the grape itself. “Blouge” is made differently and produces “a more racy and approachable profile” according to Sarah Campbell of IWSR, a market research firm. It is aimed at a younger audience, is generally lower in alcohol, and more versatile than rosé when it comes to food pairing. The younger, more adventurous, audience “want to drink something new, fun and easy-going” says Ms. Campbell. I’m sure all the self-acclaimed wine aficionados are sneering into their glasses right now!!! However, sales of “Blouge” to date would indicate that that the new wine is on to something.
The “Blouge” approach also provides resilience to climate change. Higher temperatures and heatwaves cause grapes to accumulate sugar more quickly, while the ripening of the skins and seeds can lag behind, causing a mismatch.Harvest red grapes early to minimize sugar and keep alcohol levels down, and you may get bitter, green tannins. Harvest later, and the tannins will be ripe, but the resulting wine will have high levels of alcohol (15-16%) and a lack of acidity. When white and red grapes are combined, however, the white grapes boost acidity and reduce alcohol levels. The “Blouge” process also allows growers to harvest red and white grapes at different times, giving the industry a welcome flexibility as climate shifts.
Overall, it is an interesting development. I may just go out right now to my favourite wine store to see if they have heard of “Blouge”. Maybe you should, as well!!
